Menorca Life Blog

“Of all the people who did their military service here, practically no one left with good memories”, Joana explains, but even so, many have come back. Guides strive to ensure neutrality in their tours of the site, “there have been very sad periods in history”, Joana reminds, “many people are still sensitive about this and there are many open wounds, which is why we always have to be neutral ­ we always bear this in mind in our guided tours”. For some visiting La Mola, they have more than just an interest in military history. Joana recalls one visitor in particular. “We were at the end of the guided tour, at Vickers Cannon, when one man from Valencia in his sixties pulled out his father’s military ID card from his pocket. He explained that he had come to La Mola because his father was assassinated here”. Joana is visibly moved by the memory, one of many chilling reminders that La Mola hasn’t always been a peaceful place.

La Mola is a source of contrast between darkness and light. “My favourite spot is the end point of the fortress”, Joana reveals, “where Menorca’s coastline converges with the remains of the fortress”. As for points of darkness, Joana remarks, “in the deepest, dampest cellars, you can feel the sadness of those who were here, defending the fortress.” Such contrasts make for much to discover.

“Many people come here and are surprised that the guided tour lasts two and a half hours, saying they can’t possibly spend that long here, and then they end up exploring the fortress for four hours”. There’s plenty to contemplate ­ from panoramic views to deep underground tunnels ­ and La Mola is a fortress that changes character with the weather. What may be a sunny refuge in July transforms into a windswept corner in the winter. But there’s no need to be afraid of ghosts from time gone by, “there are legends about phantoms”, Joana admits, “but we haven’t found any yet”. So what is it that made soldiers believe part of the fortress was haunted? “There are times when the wind blows, during the winter, when it whistles, as though it was speaking, which gives the fortress a certain mystery”. And a journey deep into the heart of La Mola is the only way to fully appreciate this fortress, seeped in history and filled with secrets.

Times have changed, and while La Mola remains property of the Ministry of Defence, its use has since been turned around. Now open to the public on a daily basis, Cordial Hotels has managed the site since February 2005, under the direction of Joana Català. Joana fell in love with La Mola at first sight. “I must admit I’d never visited La Mola beforehand”, she confesses, “but it surprised me, it charmed me, I was very excited about taking on this challenge”.

Challenge is the right word. Military patrimony doesn’t evoke the same passion in everyone ­ those who did their military service at La Mola hardly recall their time here fondly. The Civil War is another sore point in La Mola’s history, with many losing their lives here. “It’s complicated”, Joana admits, but certainly not impossible. “It’s a question of finding the right approach. We’ve always tried to take a neutral approach, without being partisan, just conveying chapters of history. In military history, there are many important chapters, so it’s just a question of finding the attraction”. And that’s exactly what Cordial Hotels has achieved. While the military side of La Mola’s history is well explained, the architecture and design of the fortress is an attraction in itself. “The fortress is very well preserved”, Joana notes, “because it was very well constructed”. Above and below ground, the fortress is a symbol of architectural greatness ­ huge slabs of local stone, perfectly smooth archways, the 400 metre long loop-holed gallery, impressive water cisterns ­ the list goes on. “What’s been key to the good response to La Mola is that we’ve respected the fortress 100%”, Joana believes. It’s not a question of converting La Mola into a tourist attraction, but one of paying tribute to the historical and military value of the fortress.

La Mola isn’t exactly a typical Mediterranean tourist attraction. The fortress may offer extensive sea views, but there isn’t a grain of sand to be seen, just jagged rocks. There are no traditional whitewashed villas gracing the coastline, but a web of underground tunnels and caves instead. There is also little in the way of lush gardens to please the eye. As one of Menorca’s most barren landscapes, only hardy shrubs and thick grasses dare stand up to the harsh winter winds and splashes of salt water. La Mola wasn’t designed for tourism. It was built between 1848 and 1875 with a very different purpose in mind: to keep Menorca in Spanish hands and protect it from falling under the control of French or British troops.

Viewed from the opposite side of the port, La Mola is far from foreboding. The low-lying buildings don’t appear to pose any threat at all, but the long drive out to the peninsular reveals otherwise: every last detail is focused on strengthening its defences, from bridges and moats to look out points and underground tunnels. Although never put to the test ­ La Mola has never come under attack ­ the fortress has remained an important military base ever since its construction, and was still used by soldiers as recently as the 1990s.

Inside and outside the theatre, Mahon juggles between its own and adopted cultures with ease. “It’s a multicultural town”, Arturo admits, but one that conserves its own character. Looking back over Menorca’s history he asks, “how has Menorca survived when so many civilisations have come to the island? I believe it’s because we’ve learnt how to live through each of these denominations”. Yet despite passing from hand to hand, the theatre has remained a symbol of culture for all who live in Mahon. “Menorca wouldn’t be the same without it”, Arturo asserts.

Turning to modern times, Arturo himself is also something of a symbol of Menorcan life ­ although he’d never acknowledge this. Mayor for over a decade, this September will mark his fifteenth anniversary as the town hall’s rider in Mahon’s fiestas. This annual celebration occupies much of Arturo’s free time. “While in the winter I like to take the boat out or enjoy music, when the summer comes it’s my obligation ­ and devotion ­ to start horse riding again to prepare for the fiestas”. He’s participated in the fiestas for so long now, “I can’t remember when I didn’t spend them on horseback”, Arturo jokes. From fiestas to the opera, Mahon’s cultural offer spans to accommodate all tastes: and between his professional obligations and personal devotion, Arturo Bagur endeavours to keep it this way.

For Arturo and the town hall, it was crucial to ensure that the reform was true to Menorcan style and respectful of island tradition. “We recommended Menorcan architects for the project, the town hall wanted to use professionals closely linked to Menorca’s cultural environment”. The town hall was convinced that locals would ensure the reform was done well, and was closely controlled. “There were two questions to deal with in the reform”, Arturo explains, “The space designed by Palagi in the 1800s was an Italian theatre” ­ they were keen to be faithful to these origins. “The second question was one of modernising the space”, ensuring it had state of the art equipment and commodities. “It was more than just a question of washing the theatre’s face, we had to bring it up to date”. While central, regional and local government collaborated on the project, Arturo also recalls that many private organisations participated. “I always say that we behaved similarly to those at the Liceu in Barcelona. We copied them, as we saw that they had successfully turned the reform into a social project.”

Getting locals involved was key to the theatre’s success. Running a series of guided tours during the five year rehabilitation process meant more than 35,000 people saw the changes to the theatre first hand. “It meant people felt that the project was really theirs”, Arturo explains, so even before the theatre was officially reopened in 2001, the town hall had already received considerable support from islanders and their businesses. “The theatre continues to be a very local project”, he adds. There are plans to expand this role. “We want to ensure that the theatre is an open space, for visits by tourists, and we’re working on a very interesting project”. Arturo continues, “we’re convinced that Mahon can add a cultural aspect to tourism too, we’ve got to give something extra, apart from sun and sand”. Arturo is also keen to expand the theatrical side of entertainment, “practically 90% of what’s on offer is musical”, and he’s keen to adjust the balance.

Few are the buildings that can claim to play such an integral part in the lives of Menorcans as Mahon’s Theatre. Dating back to the early 1800s, the theatre has always been the town’s cultural focus ­ home to theatre, concerts, operas and even hosting the circus. In 2005 alone more than 30,000 spectators visited the theatre. As Mahon’s mayor, Arturo Bagur has followed the theatre’s trajectory closely. Not only did he oversee the reformation of the theatre during the 1990s, but he continues to play an integral part in every day decision making at the theatre. Yet even before he became involved in politics, like most residents of Mahon, Arturo had fond memories of the theatre. “It’s always been closely linked to the lives of Mahon’s residents. It’s been our cinema, our circus, where we held dances during carnival, it’s a social space”. As a child, Arturo relates that it was practically an obligation for locals to go to the theatre on Boxing Day. “Local artists gave performances, and a circus came to town. Everyone went there”, he recalls. And historically, the theatre has also been an important stop off for theatre groups. “Legend has it that opera companies performed in Mahon before going to Barcelona. If they were successful here then they were guaranteed success in the rest of the country”, Arturo relates.

Today’s building is fruit of an extensive rehabilitation project begun in the 1990s. At the time, central government grants were available for the reformation of theatres across Spain. More than 200 theatres were reformed as a result, “it was a cultural and moral obligation to have a theatre like ours in working order”, Arturo notes, and the government paid nearly 80% of the cost of the reform. Once a project was drawn up and approved, work began in 1996, lasting five years.

Across the length and breadth of the island Nando has dared to introduce new styles and materials, but at the same time, maintained a respect for Menorcan tradition ­ certainly not a straightforward balance to strike. So is it easy to spot Nando’s works across the island? “Of course, the choice of architect is important, I suppose I do put a personal touch on buildings but above all I try to meet clients’ requests in my designs.”

Nando isn’t just passionate about constructed space on the island, however, as another important feature on Menorca’s landscape fills his free time. He and his brother have had a long interest in horses and trotting races. “We have a riding club near Sant Lluis, called Biniparratx Gran”, he revealed, where horses are trained and bred. Opened in 2004, they already have 15 clients, and many horses are brought over to the centre from Mallorca. Nando is also proud that his own horse is a champion of trotting races. For a man used to filling space, he takes great pleasure in the absence of buildings at Biniparatx Gran. “We’ve 5 hectares of land”, he notes, as much as 10 times more than a standard riding club, and it’s this space that marks the difference. So when he’s not in buildings or thinking about buildings, Nando is the first to enjoy the island’s open spaces. He’s a man who through his personal and professional passions has certainly managed to leave his mark on the island.

Not that new ideas means turning your back on the old. Take Tressants in Ciutadella as one example. An old town house hidden in one of Ciutadella’s narrowest streets, its external façade gives no indication of the mix of traditional and contemporary styles inside. Vaulted ceilings, stone arches and exposed marès walls sit comfortably alongside modern touches, such as bedrooms on split levels, a basement swimming pool and skylights. “It’s a property I could never repeat”, Nando remarks, as the reform lasted an exhausting three years. But far from taking credit for the finished result, he simply sees himself as just one piece of turning Tressants into what it is today. “An interior designer came from Sardinia to work on the walls ­ which are both abstract and Mediterranean ­ but in this case, my efforts simply complement the work of the designer. It’s the interior designer who has the spark and the skills to turn it into something truly spectacular”.

Not one to boast about his architectural achievements, Nando’s enthusiasm is infectious when he describes his work. Nando’s work at Casa Rippon in Ses Vinyes, Fornells, was something of a pioneer on the island. “This is such a special house”, he describes, “it is designed as if it were a boat, with lightweight railings, the use of wood in the living room” and an inverted layout, with the lounge upstairs ­ offering uninterrupted views of Ses Salines ­ and the bedrooms on the ground floor. The swimming pool is also out of the ordinary, located on the roof. “This house helped us open up the concept of modern architecture, and as a result, many other houses have opted for modern designs”. A stroll around Ses Vinyes illustrates this point ­ it is home to some of the most striking properties on the island, “as architects, we encouraged one another to try something modern”, Nando recalls.

In one of the many narrow streets of Mahon, lined with tall terraced properties that give little indication as to what is hiding inside is ARU Arquitectura SL ­ where Nando Pons and his team of architects work. Behind the heavy double doors of this painstakingly restored old town house, designs for some of Menorca’s most avant-garde properties are born on paper.

In his forties, Nando is Menorcan through and through. Born and bred in Mahon, after returning from studying in Barcelona and Italy, he has spent his entire career here. Nando reveals that even in the short period of time he has overseen projects on the island, Menorca’s architectural style is evolving, a point he illustrates by tracking building designs. Menorca has a clear model, with well-worn features such as bottle green shutters, smooth arches and the use of locallysourced sandstone, or marès, but Nando is convinced that while this style still has an important place in island architecture, there is room to combine this with modern elements. In fact, Nando believes it is his obligation as an architect to do so, “of course a building has a commercial aspect to it”, he explains, “but as an architect, I try to use elements that I’ve been taught, which are often very different to what you see being built”. Nando explains that he and his team are committed to move on from traditional Menorcan styles, “it’s been difficult for us to break this mould as architects, but at last it seems, we’re able to be more daring and achieve new and interesting things”.

In anticipation of several trips to the island a year, to supervise the building process, Richard and Louise decided to purchase a new apartment on the other side of the port. But far from giving the couple front line viewing while their house was being built, “we rented about 20 different properties in two years” Richard recalls. Ironically, delays to the apartment meant their house was finished first! But there were no ruffled feathers over the mishap, “we’ve got used to the slower pace of life here”, Louise notes, “and we do very much feel part of the island.” You could even say the large doses of patience needed while their house was constructed have worked in the Wortley’s favour. “In some ways, it’s fantastic the whole process has taken over five years”, Richard remarks, “we forged great relationships with islanders over the five years, and now, they seem to have taken us into their hearts”. The couple have been struck by the friendliness of locals, “of the people we’ve met so far on this island, there hasn’t been one person that I wouldn’t be quite happy to spend an evening with. We’ve only been delighted by the people we’ve met.”

The island also delights them. “We love the fact that the island hasn’t changed dramatically”, Louise explained, “all the guests we bring here are just amazed at how little development there is ­ while there are cranes after cranes on the mainland, here it’s all low, attractive and unspoilt.” Menorca’s subtlety has also won them over, as Richard remarked, “there are really good restaurants here, some great cultural events going on, but it’s all very understated, and not in your face like in other places.”

The children’s school holidays determine the frequency of their visits to Menorca, and weather permitting, their days fall into an enviable routine: heading across the water to buy fresh bread for breakfast, then packing up a picnic to take out on their boat, enjoying the beaches off Colom Island or Canutells, before heading back home for an evening of entertaining on their terrace, or boating across to the port once again for a bite to eat or a drink in Mahon and Calas Fonts’ bars. “Once we’re here, we literally do everything by boat”, Richard explained. And as I say my goodbyes, I have a feeling that today is going to be no exception to this rule.