Menorca Life Blog

Without a doubt, it is at the island’s summer fiestas that the band has gained its high profile. During July and August, musicians visit several towns to accompany the traditional jaleo, and once the horses have left the square, Es Migjorn’s band continues the entertainment. Playing for several hours at a time, the fiestas are harder work than they may appear. Asked how musicians keep their energy levels up, Pere and Isaac both laughed ­ it seems gin and lemonade is a key factor. “We may play the same music in each town, but they’re different crowds and different settings”, Isaac explains, acknowledging that “we’ve changed the concept of a typical fiesta.” Although many can’t imagine Es Migjorn’s band without thinking of the samba, it is still a relatively recent addition to their fiesta repertoire. Upon its debut in Es Migjorn, “it caused a minor revolution”, Pere recalls. But it has grown to become a staple part of the fiestas. “The samba is like anything”, Isaac continues, “evolve or die. What the samba is now is nothing like how it was at the beginning”.

Both stress the band doesn’t aim to be in the spotlight. “It’s clear that the riders and their horses are the protagonists in the fiestas”, Pere emphasises, but organises and fiesta-goers alike have begun to realise that the role of a band goes much further than just repeating the familiar jaleo tune when riders enter the square. “Today I don’t think a single Menorcan would claim that the fiestas would be the same without music”, Pere notes, and Isaac believes that the addition of the samba has helped give the band a personality. “People often say to me that without the band the fiestas wouldn’t be the same”, Isaac says, visibly pleased, while Pere relates an anecdote that pretty much conveys the atmosphere created. “A few years ago, a friend of mine explained that she had got so excited and caught up in the atmosphere while dancing to the samba in the middle of the square that she lost her bra!” So a word of warning to all fiesta goers ­ keep a tight grip on your underwear this summer, you never know how Es Migjorn Gran’s band might affect it. Asked what we can expect for 2006, Isaac finished with a smile, “it’s a surprise”.

Isaac Mascaró and Pere Sales are two of the band’s key figures. In their late 20s, both have grown up with the band. Pere, the band’s president and a trumpet player, has formed part of the band for 17 years now; Musical Director, Isaac joined 10 years ago. A tuba player himself, Isaac teaches most of the younger brass instrument players in the band. He combines this by studying to be a conductor in Valencia. And it’s at the hand of both Pere and Isaac that Es Migjorn has played a role in transforming the summer fiestas across the island ­ adding a touch of Brazilian rhythm to the longstanding traditions respected in every town.

Both play an important part in the history of the band that was founded more than 100 years ago. “Es Migjorn’s band is just one big family”, Pere explains, “one of our objectives is to build young people’s interest in music”. It’s certainly something the pair have achieved. “Many children come to me to learn an instrument just because they want to play in the band”, Isaac notes, “I’ve one student who plays the French horn, she’s only six and she wants to play the samba!” The popularity of the band has breathed new life into young people’s interest in music. “I’ve seen towns where the music school is totally dead, because the children aren’t motivated, music can be sad if it’s only something you play in your house, it’s about sharing things”, Isaac believes. And that’s what makes Es Migjorn’s band so special, the fact that people of all ages and all abilities ­ from veterans like clarinet player Xec Gomila who has formed a part of the band for over fifty years, to young people forty years his junior ­ can join together to produce something of such a high standard. “Playing at the fiestas or concerts brings the musicians together”.

The past few years have been a whirlwind of achievements: performing alongside the Grammywinning guitarist David Russell, playing in Mahon’s Theatre for the first time and being named Protagonists of Menorcan Life. “We aim to keep raising the level of the band”, Isaac reveals, “this demands real efforts from the musicians, as well as hard work by Pere and Xavi Tárrega (a clarinet player and deputy conductor) in section rehearsals.” But the musicians themselves know such efforts are worthwhile. “I often hear comments after concerts, when musicians say to me, `I never thought I’d be able to play this’, but once they’ve started to work on a piece, they realise it isn’t as difficult as they first thought”. Isaac is not shy of taking on musical challenges, “I use the example of an elastic band. I just keep stretching it”.

But it isn’t just the fans that make playing basketball in Menorca so special. The island has played its part in welcoming the team. Moss recalls his first visit to Menorca, “it was summer, in 2003, the sun was shining, I spent lots of time at the beach and it never rained. Menorca was an ideal place to be, I just love it”. Growing up in Catalonia, Camps already knew a fair bit about Menorca before he moved here, and first came to the island on a family holiday as a child. Over the past few years he’s got to know Menorca well, making many friends, and taking time out to visit the beach and go fishing. Menorca certainly makes a sharp contrast from Barcelona, but Camps explains while he enjoys the shops and entertainment that the city has to offer, there’s nothing quite like Menorca’s peace and quiet.

Stimac did his homework before moving to the island. Having grown up in a port town on Croatia’s coast, Rijeka, he was keen to be able to continue to live near the sea -­ so Menorca certainly fitted the bill. Stimac lives in Es Castell with his wife and just in case any of the players are uncertain of where to go, they can always turn to Reynés. As an authentic Menorcan, he’s used to recommending good restaurants or places to go. For the Mahon-born captain, there’s nothing he and his family like more than exploring Menorca’s countryside or boating between the different corners of the coast. “I always recommend the island to friends in June or September, as the weather’s very good but there’s no overcrowding”.

Free time is something of a luxury for the players, however, who are focussed on ensuring Menorca becomes a permanent feature of the ACB league tables. With half the season behind them when we met, they’ve still got everything to play for and Moss stresses that the team will do all it can to ensure they avoid relegation. Hard work from the players and energetic support from islands these are the two key factors to keep Menorca at the pinnacle of national basketball.

Menorca Basquet’s presence in the ACB has transformed winter weekends for islanders of all ages. While many may have previously opted to stay at home on a rainy November night, fortnightly matches against ACB legends, such as Real Madrid  or Barcelona, mean islanders flock in their thousands to Menorca Pavilion in Mahon to add their cheers in support of their team. Menorca Basquet’s team captain, Tisi Reynés, and the only ‘genuine’ Menorcan on the team, struggles to find words to describe the importance of locals at matches. “Suddenly basketball has turned into a regular habit for islanders, it forms a part of their lives and that’s just fantastic”. Reynés has played in the ACB before, in Tenerife and Gran Canaria, but he doesn’t even begin to try to compare the two, “the atmosphere here is totally different, as here almost 10% of the island’s population follows each game”. The strength of local support, “is really good for the team”, he emphasises. This feeling is shared by newcomers this season, such as the Croatian player Mario Stojic, who couldn’t put it more clearly, “the public are our sixth player”. Salva Camps, who has formed part of Menorca’s team on and off since the 2002/03 season doesn’t hide his amazement. “We used to fill the old stadium to bursting point, and that was for 3,000 people. Now we’re filling the new stadium to the limit, and that’s for an additional 2,000 spectators, the support is just incredible”. Andrej Stimac agrees, “the crowd here is great, they continue to motivate you even if the scoreboard isn’t in your favour”.

Off the court, the players continue to be noticed ­- in a town like Mahon, there’s little chance of blending in when you’re over 6 feet tall and your photo is in the local press on a weekly basis. Stimac didn’t hide his surprise that he began to be recognised so quickly. People stop him on the street, and many fans chat to him using the few words they know in English -­ not that this is necessary, as he gained a good grasp of basic Spanish within a matter of weeks of living on the island. “Everyone seems to know each other here”, he remarked, “life certainly seems good on the island”. Chris Moss, one of the team’s American players and a key figure in Menorca Basquet’s ascension to the ACB, jokes that people often chat to him when he’s out an about, “last year I received positive comments, but as I started this season off with an injury, that wasn’t the case at the beginning of this year!”

The rise of Menorca Basquet to the dizzy heights of the world’s second-most important basketball league after the NBA is the stuff of fairy tales. After years of good performances in the LEB (the second national basketball league), but never managing to convince Spain that it was tough enough to play with the big boys, it finally achieved what many could only dream of ­ beating mainland giants to seal its place in the ACB. Yet the island’s euphoria was short lived. Once celebratory hangovers wore off, inevitable questions emerged: there was a huge question mark hanging over funding, a need for a new sports centre capable of housing 5,000 spectators ­- a minimum requirement for entry to the league ­- and new players had to be found. But by September 2005, the tale had a happy ending. The paint still had to dry on much of the pavilion and of all 18 teams in the ACB league Menorca Basquet had the lowest budget to juggle with, but players and supporters could hold their heads high in the knowledge that this season would never be forgotten in Menorca’s sporting history.

The driving force responsible for Menorca’s triumph in 2005 and its struggle to keep the team’s name as high as possible in the ACB league table is a group of players better known by their surnames, their height and weight, the numbers on their shirts, the points they’ve scored or injuries they’ve suffered. The characters behind these statistics have not only adopted Menorca as their home, but they’ve also become an indispensable part of island life. Ironic as it may seem, a group of outsiders has helped join islanders together and make them feel more Menorcan than ever before.

And the difference at Marivent is clear from the moment you walk through the door. A shady first floor terrace offers a cool place to dine on summer evenings ­ when it is awash with colour with hanging baskets and plants -­ while for the rest of the year, the second floor dining rooms is bordered by vast windows overlooking the port ­ providing a sheltered look out post on cooler winter days. With space for just 100 clients on the two floors, the atmosphere is intimate, the service is good and the waiters remain discrete. It makes for a sharp contrast to the comings and goings of staff and clients at other restaurants in the port on a busy summer evening. Francisco stresses that a good meal isn’t just about good food, “of course, you can eat very well here in Menorca, but many restaurants geared towards tourists are cheap and cheerful -­ with only simple meals on offer”. But he and his staff aim to stand out not just in terms of cuisine. “Good service is so important”, he emphasises, which is why we close on Tuesdays throughout the year. If you never close, none of the staff have a chance to rest”. Relaxed staff do a great deal to generate a relaxed atmosphere, “so when people do come here, they feel at home”.

It’s close to opening time now, and Francisco’s team of waiters have arrived, the tables are laid, the crystal is spotless and the telephone has rung several times with people making reservations. Good service, fresh ingredients and innovative dishes. Perhaps there’s no secret to success after all.

Behind the scenes, Lidia heads up the kitchen. Although her training is firmly rooted in home cooking -­ learning the trade from her mother in law ­- she strives to take this tradition one step further. “We like to go to restaurants and try new things”, she explained, “so I’ve gradually combined the two to create a different style, combining traditional elements from here, but adding a modern touch”. When the season permits, Lidia uses Menorcan produce in her cooking, locally caught fish and shellfish, island cheeses and sausages, and locally-grown vegetables, and she aims to renew the menu four times a year. But it’s no easy task. “The truth is there are certain dishes we can’t remove!” she joked, referring to the marinated salmon salad, carpaccio of Dublin Bay prawns and garlic prawns. “If we take them off the menu, people ask us for them.”

Creativity is the key to Marivent’s menu ­ classic dishes are brought up to date with the addition of unexpected ingredients, such as their traditional fish soup with a guest appearance in the form of figs, or a classic chocolate dessert accompanied by the not-so-usual mango ice cream. The local speciality, garlic mayonnaise, hasn’t escaped their attentions and is modernised with a lighter, frothy version. Daring to mix the old with the new has led to dishes so distinctive even the most vivid imaginations would struggle to come up with.

Francisco Febrer and Licia Barber know a thing or two about good eating. This husband and wife team from Ferreries manage Marivent, an unassuming restaurant raised up above the bustle of the seafront in Mahon’s port. Sat in the second floor dining room with enviable views of the yachts bobbing on the water, the couple explained how they’ve fused Menorca, Mediterranean and modern cooking to put together a unique menu.

Francisco confesses that after 25 years in the industry, he couldn’t be anything other than a restaurateur. Having worked across the island, from home town Ferreries, to Ses Salines, before taking over Marivent from a Catalan-English couple in 2002, gastronomy has become something of a family affair ­- with his mother, son and wife all playing their parts. But Francisco is reluctant to imitate what is already available, which is why the couple aim to add a contemporary touch to their kitchen.

In addition, Arturo runs a related company, Menorca Villas, “at the end of the 1980s with the construction boom we built hundreds of apartments”. Times have changed, however, and now the company focuses on high quality construction projects and reforms. “One of my hobbies is to direct the building work”, Arturo reveals, “I visit the building sites on a daily basis”. He jokes about how his approach to work has changed, “during the eighties I put my jacket and tie on every day, but I haven’t worn them since!” This hands on approach means he comes into close contact with clients. “Nearly all of them are British”, Arturo’s knowledge of English and the time he spent living in the UK means he has a head start on other builders on the island. “You’ve got to have a Menorcan mentality to be able to work here, but at the same time, understand what British clients are after.” Not an easy balance to strike. “This has been my life. It’s difficult, but I’ve achieved it”.

Turning back to sport, Arturo’s ambitions for cycling on the island are twofold. Looking inwards, he’s keen to get more women and youngsters on their bikes. “I’d like to combine cycling tourism with excursions”, he explained. And in terms of the island tour, Arturo is looking outside Menorca. “Rather than increase the number of participants, I’d like to bring more famous cyclists here”, Arturo revealed. “My big challenge is to get to know Lance Armstrong personally and bring him to Menorca one day, I’ve already made a start on some contacts”. Looking at what Arturo’s achieved so far, it wouldn’t be a surprise if this dream comes true.

In addition, the association hosts Menorca’s Lighthouse Route ­ a tiring day on two wheels covering 202km between Menorca’s coastal outposts. It’s now in its third year. “We’re gradually gaining a name on a national level”, Arturo states proudly, noting that the number of participants from outside Menorca continues to climb. Both events have done much to raise Menorca’s profile as a destination for cyclists. “We’re gaining international recognition too”, he states, with cyclists from France, Andorra, Italy and the UK travelling to Menorca to participate. Arturo has also taken the initiative and invited professional cyclists to join in. International athletes, such as Miguel Indurain ­ five times winner of the Tour de France ­ Chechu Rubiera, Marga Fullana, Iban Mayo, Pedro Delgado and Abraham Olano are just a handful of the famous faces who have peddled alongside Menorcans as guests. “That’s my job”, Arturo explains, although it doesn’t stop there. He’s also working to bring more international cyclists ­ both amateurs and professionals ­ to the island.

Apart from being the president of Menorca’s Cycle Tourism Association, Arturo also plays a role in developing cycling across the Balearics as a whole, as vice-president of the Balearic Federation. As a result, Arturo plays a part in organising cycling events across the Balearics ­ offering advice based on his experiences in Menorca. “Many organisers learn from what we’ve done here”, and Arturo is happy for others to take his lead.

In work, he is also used to being one step ahead. In 1975 he founded Piscinas Menorca, “I bought myself a book about swimming pools and started from there”, Arturo explained. Highly motivated, Arturo investigated the industry, finding out about a pioneering technique in pool construction: spray concrete machines. Thanks to loans from friends and family, Arturo bought one of these machines in 1977 and was the first to bring one to Menorca. “From that moment on, I specialised in pools. There are many people in Menorca who then copied me”. Thirty years on and 2,400 swimming pools later, there’s no doubt about the success of the company. “For the past 10 years, we’ve built between 100 and 115 pools a year”, Arturo notes with pride, “we were the first and we were pioneers. We never let any client down”.